MAURITIUS DIVE: THE CACHALOT GAME GROUND

Each year, the magnificent giants, mainly females and young but also some solitary males, gather in Mauritian waters. And if the activity is very framed, it is still possible to go to meet them.

" IT WAS MAGICAL ! I CAN NEVER FORGET "

Looking down at the horizon, smiling to the ears, dripping hair, Veronique feels like she's dreamed. Five minutes ago she was swimming among a group of female sperm whales, some of whom were nursing their babies. "You really feel very small in the water with them. They are huge and swim slowly, "adds his companion François, also very moved. These ecovolunteers had the incredible opportunity to get in the water with sperm whales living 5 miles southwest of Mauritius.

Video: René Heuzey - Label Bleu Productions

THE CACHALOT GAME GROUND

"Between Port-Louis and Le Morne Brabant, in the big canyons that go down to 2000 m funds, sperm whales eat giant squids, says Michel Vely, veterinarian and founder of the association Megaptera for knowledge, the observation and conservation of marine mammals. I estimate that a hundred individuals live here. They are essentially matriarchal groups, females that take turns to feed at the bottom, feed and keep young people on the surface. Sometimes we see a big solitary male ... "

TEN TIMES THE WEIGHT OF AN ELEPHANT!

In the family of marine mammals, the sperm whale is the largest of the toothed whales (odontocete). The mature female measures 12 m and weighs 30 at 40 tons. The male reaches 18 m, and 50 reaches 60 tons. With its large, smooth, square head, which occupies nearly a third of its wrinkled body, its pectoral fins in the form of palettes and its mouth highlighted with white, the sperm whale lacks the grace of certain whales. But his good-natured and peaceful attitude makes him likeable. At Flic-en-Flac, they are called "sugar trucks", because they are as huge as the trucks carrying the cane.

ECOTOURISM WHALING

Sperm whales live in all the world's oceans, but there are few places to approach them. In November, December, March and April, the southwest of Mauritius is their haunt. Two tourist operators develop a respectful whale-watching tourism and offer to visit sperm whales for observation purposes: Dolswim in Black River and Hugues Vitry diver in Trou-aux-Biches. He has just created with Michel Vély the NGO Marine Megafauna Conservation Organization.

BETTER KNOW THEM

“Being on the water all year round, we can collect data, allowing us to better understand the populations of sperm whales, humpback whales, sharks, rays and sea turtles. In Mauritius, no real study has been carried out so far. The elements collected - photo-identification of individuals, notes on behavior - will be provided to Megaptera specialists, ”explains Hugues Vitry.

ON BOARD "MOBY DICK"

Alain Dubois, the skipper of Dolswim, is passionate about cetaceans. He has organized sea trips to meet dolphins and sperm whales for more than ten years. "Every time, it's happiness, all different moments," he says. Driven by 180 cv, his speedboat called "Moby Dick" runs on the calm water of the lagoon. The beach of Black River is moving away quickly. We can see the silhouettes of the Rempart and Le Morne Brabant mountains. At 4 miles from the coast, he stops the engines and launches a half-sphere fixed at the end of a pole. He sinks headphones into the ears. Silence on board.

CLICK, CLICK, CLICK ...

With this directional hydrophone, he listens to the clicks sperm whales emit to find their prey, and to communicate with each other. "Codas", which look like the sound of our old typewriters. But sometimes the whale hides: "At rest, at 10 m bottom, it emits no sound. You can miss a group without seeing it, "says the skipper. The boat leaves to the south and stops again. Alain takes his mobile phone and goes fishing for information. His fishing friends may have seen, between the waves, some dorsal fins?

SOUFFLES ON THE SIDE

The speed boat left again and suddenly: "Sperm whales right in front! Said Alain, pointing to 200, from which there were puffs coming out from the side, from the ends of the fins emerging from the silvery surface. "When the sperm whales break (spectacular jumps), we see them at 1 Km," he says. With engines idling, the boat slowly approaches a first group of three individuals. Michel Vély grapes photos and notes GPS coordinates to identify individuals.

AT SEA, YOU ARE NOT AT THE ZOO

Wide, smooth backs glow in the sun. Huge square noses emerge from the water, and sperm whales undulate and plunge slowly, showing off their superb caudal fins. "Sperm whales decide, we have no control over them. If they want to let us come nearer better, if not too bad. No way to block their way, or to separate a mother from a small ... common sense. A second group of six tranquil mammals accept the presence of the boat.

DISCRETE IN WATER

"These animals are not stressed, their diving sequence does not change when you approach", explains Michel Vély. The launch is possible. Accompanied by Christofer - guide and very good freediver - three people slip quietly into the water, with fins, mask and snorkel. Michel's last recommendations: “Stay together, swim gently, arms alongside your body, fins well in the water. Surface strikes can frighten animals ”.

WITH WHAT TO GO?

Since 1er November 2012, a new law in Mauritius regulates tourism activities with cetaceans. She is gradually putting herself in place. Skippers must be trained in rescue at sea and approaching marine mammals. The propellers of the boats must be equipped with protection and the launching of swimmers with the whales is forbidden except on derogation. So choose your provider.

Text: Alexie Valois

Photos: Alexis Rosenfeld