Vanuatu: cults, myths and dives.

The archipelago counts 83 islands, each with its own customs, its own language, different points of interest and its own flavor. For a first stay of two to three weeks, we will favor the 3 main islands: Efate and its capital Port Vila, Tanna in the South, Santo in the North.

You will be told that Rio has the most beautiful bay in the world, as I lived in Port Vila and I am not biased at all, I disagree with this personal opinion that I share with myself: the most beautiful is Port Vila! It retains a nonchalant post-colonial charm that resembles the Caribbean, although decadent, the French flair is still there.  

The dives are done around the surrounding islands: the visibility is good, the corals are sumptuous, the gorgonians particularly abundant. One is struck by the lack of medium size fish, although there is no overfishing, but the larger ones, white tip type or zebra shark, are common. We can stay a few nights at Tranquility Island, a basic structure on the island paradise of Moso, and dive with the integrated center. Beware, the bungalows are rustic (arachnophobes abstain).

The protected bay of Mélé, near Port Vila, is home to the highly professional HideAway resort. The dives are carried out in the bay, unfortunately attacked by the Acancasther, but which nevertheless remains well rated by photographers for the colored anemones on a spot called "Pink Panther".
We also plunge into Port Vila Bay on wrecks adorned with gorgonians like the Semle Federesen or the Star of Russia sailboat. Between two dives, a half-turn of the island is necessary, if possible in 4 * 4 because the roads quickly become dreadful. On the program, waterfalls, beautiful beaches (most of paid access) and green nature ...

There is nowhere to dive in Tanna, it's a fact, but would you go to Komodo without meeting the dragons? In Tanna, the dragon is the Yasur volcano that has been popularized by Tazieff and vulcanologists around the world. At dusk, we drive you almost to the edge of the crater, 200 meters to walk and you find yourself in front of the most spectacular natural fireworks with smell of sulfur, rumblings and spurts of lava without additives. Put a bottle of champagne in the fridge, take two flutes with you and I guarantee you will have impressed your favorite buddy for life!

Beware of Tanna Kava (a narcotic drink), you risk that its stuff from a root is chewed by someone else before drinking it (it's customary) and not being able to get up so much there is strong. Port Resolution is crisscrossed with bush roads leading either to deserted beaches or to the John Frum tribe, "cargo cult", whose few members sing and dance every night from Friday to dawn hoping that a white freighter will come back.

Imagine a 200 1942 long 35 70 troop carrier liner, 40m deep and 1m deep, almost intact except for the open breaches of the "friendly" mines ... and it's a dive! That's why the Coolidge attracts divers from all over the world to Santo. Allan Power and his team dive on it since 40 years, Garry and Alfred are jovial and über-experienced guides, they will propose a program of habituation to the depth and progressive penetration: visit of the first holds in 2 day (48m max) , the mythical sculpture of the Lady and the engine room in 65 day (35m max) and we can go down from day to day until 40m for the most advanced, on the back of the boat, without forgetting a night dive at XNUMX / XNUMXm in the front holds for the rather unique show of fluorescent fish.

The Coolidge is a universe all by itself, it can be plunged without problems 4 days in a row without weariness. And if the Coolidge sheet is not enough, Million Dollar Beach is another big attraction. A mind-blowing vision of the military muddle is closer to a billion than a million: a sandwich of thick 20m vehicles sunk by the US Army against a background of 40m.
On land, Santo is the far-west, breeding of choice and kava bar on every street corner. At 50km further north, and more than an hour's drive away is the sublime beach of Champagne beach, whose name says it all.

The major problem of Vanuatu is its relative isolation and difficulty of access, which of course makes the stay expensive, except for our New Caledonian friends of course. But if SS President Coolidge, if the Yasur volcano, if the tribal culture remained surprisingly authentic on some islands and even in town, are not enough to make you want to go there, you also say that Vanuatu was designated "country the happiest in the world "in 2006 on criteria of longevity and ecological footprint (Happy Planet Index). 

Come also for the simple sweetness of being there, and the almost absent insecurity ... For the shared Kava while contemplating a beautiful day that ends, the bislama (the English pidgin language practicable in 15 days if you know English), beef which can compete with Argentines. For tuluks, the best snack in the world, available for 100 vatus each at the Port Vila market (a cassava cake filled with almost candied meat, wrapped in a banana leaf, cooked for hours under volcanic stones). I stop. There would still be so many other reasons.

How to reach Vanuatu:
It's a bit complicated from Europe, it must be the opportunity to combine two weeks in Vanuatu with another destination in the Pacific:
• Via Nouméa, Air Calin connects with Port Vila,
• By Nadi to Fijis via Seoul: Air Pacific serves Port Vila
• By Australia via Sydney or Brisbane by Pacific Blue or Air Vanuatu.

On Inter-Island flights it is not uncommon to have a pig in a neighbor's bag, make sure he has his seat belt on! Some passengers go up barefoot with their rifles, others forget that it is forbidden to bring their rifles into the cabin. Relax, you are in Vanuatu, the happiest country in the world.

Minibus taxis plow the roads night and day. You go up, you announce any address and the minibus takes you there against 100 Vatu per person, whatever the distance traveled.

Climate:
Equatorial wet do not expect continuous sun, you will quickly understand the greenery of the vegetation.
Southern winter sometimes very rainy during the months of July / August, (temperatures between 18 ° and 25 °).
Cyclones possible between December and April (temperatures between 24 and 32 °).
Fairly constant water temperature between 26 ° and 30 °
Visibility of 10 / 15m on wrecks (near Coolidge) and 25 / 30m on coral reefs.

Various:
Entry: no visa required for EU nationals for stays of less than 30 days, valid passport 6 months and a continuation ticket.
Time: GMT + 11
Languages: We are polyglot in Vanuatu, bislama (English pidgin, equivalent of Creole) is practiced by everyone, English almost as well and French according to the villages.
Health: No vaccine required. Protect yourself from the abundant mosquitoes.
Currency: The Vatu, 130 Vatu = 1 €. A lot of money changers in Port Vila and the possibility of ATM withdrawals, less in the islands.
Electricity: 220 / 280V - Australian plug to 3 flat plugs.

What to bring back from Vanuatu?
Fans of the early arts will flock to tribal masks, statues carved in black tree ferns or Ambrym drums. Each of 1m50 mini high, it has the mouth in a living room or in a garden.

In Port Vila:
Hotel Fatumaru Lodge in Port Vila, charming and furnished on the theme of the islands of Vanuatu.
Flaming Bull Steak house: The meat of Vanuatu on the grill, thick, juicy and tender.
The market is open 24 hours a day: for tuluks, go to the ladies with a cooler marked "Tuluk blong Mele" ...
Hide Away Island Resort, to spend the day, at night or eat there, a delicious curry after and before the dive.
The diving center Nautilus dives to Port Vila since 40 years.  

In Santo:
Deco Stop Lodge: the functional hotel of which every diver dreams: a large teak deck with swimming pool overlooking the bay of Santo, some rooms have a door at the back directly overlooking the large rinsing baths and washrooms. drying.
Natangora cafe: very good steak for cheap, good location in the city center.
Santo Night Market: A table by stove that announces the unique and complete dish of the day, it's not bad and ridiculously cheap.
The Kava red bar on the docks "in front of the gas station" ideal for an introduction to the mystery of kava.
Alan Power dive center; the pioneers, for Garry's jokes and for Alfred, a guide to "face". Alfred gives ENVIE to dive.
Aquamarine: for the tek divers and to go lower, they offer diving to the mixtures.

In Tanna:
Sunrise bungalows: small bungalows without electricity on an impressive cliff, 15mn by car from the volcano and 30mn beaches on foot. Kava offered and assured red eyes.
Chez Léa: Léa speaks French and makes a chicken with carrots to die for, and it's on the beach, what are the people asking for?
White grass resort, beautiful LandRovers, chicos bungalows.

Ludovic Galko

on scuba people

H2O Travel ¤ Key Largo ¤ ultramarina

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