A few days ago, the BLOOM association published test results produced on 72 moisturizers with the words "squalane" on their label. This mention did not specify whether this moisturizing substance commonly used in cosmetics was of animal (shark liver oil) or vegetable (olive or sugar cane) origin. The results are formal for 62 of these creams: one in five contains shark squalane ! |
“In 2012, our Global Shark Liver Oil Market Study showed that the cosmetics industry was responsible for 90% of shark squalane use. However, plant substitutes exist, explains Claire Nouvian, founder of BLOOM. Brands are in a position to end an unnecessary environmental tragedy, sacrificing more than three million deep-sea sharks every year. " |
In fact, less than 10% of Western creams tested contain shark squalane. A positive development in the market welcomed by Laure Ducos, main author of the study at BLOOM: “ Our results indicate a satisfactory trend of the Western cosmetic market. In contrast, half of the Asian creams we tested still contain shark squalane. " |
In Europe, on 32 creams tested the three main brands that contain shark squalane are IOMA, Swiss beauty care method and Topicrem. Since the publication of these tests however, Topicrem has informed BLOOM that the tested cream, purchased in 2014, was produced in 2012. Since then, the company has stopped using squalane in the formulation. |
Regarding IOMA, the brand claims to have only ever used certified squalane of plant origin. The tests carried out by the Institute of Analytical Sciences (ISA) affiliated to the CNRS nevertheless showed that the IOMA cream tested contained squalane composed of 30% shark squalane. " The results are formal, recalls Laure Ducos, but sometimes some suppliers cut vegetable squalane with shark squalane and present it as pure vegetable squalane. This is what happened in 2011 to L'Oréal. ” |
Patrick Jame, deputy director of the ISA research group adds: “In 2010, we developed a reliable and easy-to-use methodology for testing the origin of squalane. Companies can thus test the batches of raw material they receive at a lower cost.." |
Faced with the urgency of the degraded situation of shark populations in the world, international regulations are evolving too slowly. BLOOM calls on cosmetic companies to get ahead of legislation and show the way in their environmental responsibility by making a public commitment to no longer use shark squalane, to test the vegetable squalane they buy and to adopt labeling specifying the origin of squalane. |
FIND BLOOM'S COMPLETE STUDY BY CLICKING HERE
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BLOOM'S RECOMMENDATIONS ON THE MEASURES TO BE TAKEN TO SUPPORT BRAND ENGAGEMENT |
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CONSUMER POINT |
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ABOUT BLOOM ASSOCIATION |
BLOOM is a non-profit association founded in 2005 which works for marine conservation and the preservation of the socio-economic balance of fisheries. Its approach revolves around awareness-raising and scientific mediation actions on environmental issues, the production of independent studies, as well as participation in public consultations and institutional processes. Our actions are aimed at the general public as well as at political decision-makers and economic players. For more information : www.bloomassociation.org. |
Sharks in beauty creams ...
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Hello,
Shark fishing must be controlled like that of bluefin tuna.
Too much damage has already been done.
It is a beginning, but not the end. Let us all remain attentive and responsive.
Good year 2012
Christophe