USTICA DIVING: THE MAGIC OF A LEGENDARY ISLAND

Discovering the Mediterranean islands is every time you go on an enchanting journey, and sometimes fall in love: and Ustica the Sicilian is a sublime surprise. Between volcanic caves, groupers of another time and benches of barracuda, absolute charm and Italian cuisine, we do not come back unscathed!

FOR COUSTEAU, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ISLAND OF MEDITERRANEAN

Described by Commander Cousteau as "the most beautiful island of the Mediterranean", it is in Ustica that the first 20 marine reserves Italian was created in 1986. Almost unknown by us French, it is however the Mecca of diving in Italy. So you imagine my pleasure when Laurent Hervier, director of Spots of Evasion, offered me to discover Ustica to present it to you.

BENVENUTI IN PALERMO

Capital city and largest city of Sicily with 720 000 inhabitants, you will arrive in Palermo. Depending on the time, you may need to spend a night there in order to take the Aliscafo which will take 1 30 time to Ustica. If this is the case, you will enjoy staying at Résidence Wagner. This one has just opened and offers 6 rooms, in all and for all, in a very "deco" atmosphere. Do not forget to book a table at Trattoria Piccolo Napoli, a must-see for those who want to (re) discover Italian cuisine.
In case the Aliscafo is not in service (if, if ... è possibile ...) Spots d'Evasion will offer you to do a day of diving with the Orca Diving Palermo club which is ideally located on the outskirts of the city in an area seaside.

USTICA THE BLACK PEARL

Also referred to as the “black pearl of the Mediterranean” due to its beauty and volcanic origin, Ustica is an island in the Tyrrhenian Sea located approximately 67 kilometers northwest of Palermo although it is not part of the archipelago of the Aeolian Islands. Its area is approximately 9 km2 and its circumference approaches 12 km with 3,5 km in length and 2,5 km in width.
It is on this island that, according to mythology, would be the home of the magus Circe who transformed unexpected visitors into pigs, Aeolus is supposed to have lived there and it is also here that Ulysses heard and saw the famous Mermaid…
It is a human-sized island with 1000 year-round residents who are tripled in August. The whole life of the village takes place in the central piazza: say hello to Alfredo, the bartender-baker of the central bar. The breakfasts are monumental, as are the ice creams.

THE USTICA MARINE RESERVE

Created in 1986, the reserve is intended to preserve the immense heritage that represent the fauna and the underwater environment around Ustica. It is divided into 3 zones: zone A, an integral reserve that extends from Cala Sidoti to Caletta and up to 350 meters from the coast to the west of the island, where it is forbidden to dock or fish; Zone B, General Reserve, surrounds Zone A and extends from Punta Cavazzi to Punta Omo Morto (it actually follows the entire coastline from southwest to northwest on a strip of 3 miles wide from the coast ). Swimming, scuba diving (not underwater fishing), angling and trolling or professional fishing are allowed (with the authorization of the municipality for the last case). The remaining part is Zone C, a partial reserve, which follows national legislation and, among other things, allows underwater fishing.

ORCA DIVING USTICA

The dive center is ideally located less than 100 meters from the pier. It is a small structure managed by Francesco and… Francesco year round. To simplify communication, there is “Fra” the photographer and “Cecco” the French-speaking rugby player, not to mention “Cacao”, the Orca Diving mascot canine who will even accompany you on the boat from time to time. However, in the middle of summer, the staff can mount up to 6 instructors who will take you diving on one of the club's 2 semi-rigid. Allow 15 minutes by boat to reach the most distant spot.
Excellent news, the morning appointment is 9h30 and the afternoon is at 15h30 which leaves time to be really on vacation. If I had to summarize in a few words the Orca Diving Center Ustica it would certainly: professionalism, availability and kindness.

THE DIVES AT USTICA

Because of its volcanic origin, Ustica is full of caves and tunnels of all kinds.
Dives not to be missed:
- the Doctor's Rock (scoglio del medico) takes its name from the first (doctor) who came to Ustica and who, already old, fell in love with a certain Chantalluzza who was barely 16 years old. When she refused him, he swam to this rock, where he let himself die of love.
More seriously, it is one of the must-see places for diving on the island. Count 4 to 5 dives to really go around this rock. Canyons & tunnels, eastern slope, Doctor's cave, western canyon… are all places that require diving.
- The dry Colombara (Secca della Colombara) is ideally plunged on the western slope. It is generally possible to see around thirty groupers, large bronzed groupers weighing 40 kilos, amberjacks, snappers, lobsters ... We also see magnificent red gorgonians along the drop off from 35 meters but also on the rocks called “Panettoni” that are on the bottom.
Sicchitello, Punta galera, Piramidi, Punta dell'arpa, Grotta della pastizza, Punta Falconara… are all dives to do.

THE GROTTE OF SHRIMP (GROTTA DEI GAMBERI)

It is also one of the essentials of the island and, for my part, the most “different” of all the dives that I have been able to do. By 42 meters deep, you will find the entrance to a relatively wide tunnel. Very quickly, in the dark, the ground gives the impression of literally starting to move… Little by little, thousands of “paparandola” surround you…

HOTELS

Spots d'Évasion has selected hotels for every budget and can also offer accommodation in apartments.
I had the opportunity to stay at the Hotel Clelia, a 3 star ideally located at 50 meters from the central piazza, the "Champs Elysees" of Ustica. On foot, you will have to cross the village and in less than 5 minutes you will be at the Orca Diving.
The Residence Stella Marine is at 15 meters from the diving center and offers a breathtaking view of the harbor and also a small swimming pool.

THE TRATTORIA DA BRUSCHETTO

If you were only going to eat at one place on the island, don't look! This tiny establishment, 2 tables inside and 6 outside, is simply magical. Giuseppe Taranto, the cook and owner of the place, is a creativity coupled with a kindness that he sums up in one word: passion. There is no printed menu here, but exclusively seafood caught the same day PéPé accommodates according to his mood. Octopus salad, paparandola di Ustica, barracuda fritters… spaghetti del mare, al huevo dei pesce, al pesto, fritto misto… everything is delicious and at controlled prices. If you go, say hello to him from “scuba people i francesi” it will make him happy and you will certainly not regret it 😉

MY SENTIMENT ON USTICA

During my stay, the mistral was blowing very hard, preventing me from diving around the reserve… I was only able to do 4 dives in all and for everything on the sheltered side of the island where the dives are less spectacular . Nevertheless, the place is magical. The depths are strewn with real fields of Posidonia where huge, unafraid groupers are on the lookout. Sars, saupes, octopus… gorgonians… the whole range of diving in the Mediterranean is abundant there. Huge schools of barracudas patrol peacefully. The crystal clear waters, the countless caves really make the place a must for diving in the Mediterranean.

THE ESCAPE SPOTS OFFER

Travel from 960 € in June and up to 26 / 07
Includes: Palermo flight to Palermo, airport transfers Hotel in Palermo, 2 nights Wagner 3 stay * in continental breakfast, boat transfers to Ustica, 5 nights in double room hotel Clelia in Breakfast, 6 dives for diver with his equipment, repatriation insurance assistance , file fees.

TELEPHONE: + 33 (0) 2 40 35 22 00

Text & videos: Manuel Lewin