Diving in La Paz with Mexican acrobats

Between the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of ​​Cortez is emerging the Mexican peninsula known as Baja California or Baja California. Located at the gateway to the Sea of ​​Cortez, its capital, the peaceful town of La Paz, is home to biodiversity and exceptional landscapes. Nicknamed by Jacques Yves Cousteau "the largest aquarium in the world", the Sea of ​​Cortez is conducive to many exceptional encounters depending on the seasons: schools of hammerhead sharks, whale sharks, giant mantas rays, mobulas rays, turtles, dolphins California sea lions but also many marine mammals such as blue whales, humpback whales, gray whales and even killer whales.

Listed as a bio-sphere and World Heritage Site for its biodiversity and exceptional natural landscapes by UNESCO, the island of Espiritu Santo is just a few nautical miles from La Paz. It is particularly famous for its colony of California sea lions residing in a neighboring island, a little further north: Los Islotes.

To get there, you have to count 45min in "panga". A surprisingly short ride as the show is varied: escort of dolphins, whales breaths, surface breathing turtles, frigates, cormorants, blue-footed boobies or pelicans hunting ... The most exciting is still the observation of mobulas rays that s 'fly above the surface, greeting us with a few loops!

As we approach Los Islotes, our eyes are already amazed by the navigation, a strong smell and a real din catches our attention. No doubt, we have arrived! The presence of a colony of no less than 300 pinnipeds does not go unnoticed. Some bask in the sun, others socialize, as for the males, they make rounds accompanied by barking, in order to assert themselves by keeping their territory and to protect their harem.

Accustomed to seeing the landing pangas full of tourists, adults pay no attention to our boat, unlike the little ones, overflowing with curiosity, come around the little panga, just docked to the mooring. It is time to attend the briefing of the rules of respect and safety before being equipped then to immerse oneself.

Once in the turquoise water, a small round of observation is required to make the presentations. Very curious and mischievous, young people are comparable to puppies. Beginning around us, they quickly become familiar with the divers and then take a keen interest in our equipment. Once in confidence, they nibble our fins, try to tear off the strap of our masks, play with the elasticity of our neoprene or nibble the tips of our fingers.

Although seemingly clumsy on land, sea lions are fabulous swimmers and acrobats. Extremely lively and agile, it is not uncommon to have the privilege of attending a graceful ballet between several young people playing in schools of thousands of anchovies, or to see them having fun with anything that arouses their curiosity, like that poor diodon who has spent a bad quarter of an hour.

For a long time, the pinniped handled delicately and cautiously the poisonous fish with thorns which was the object of a game similar to that of a dog with a ball.

All around the small island, the diving is captivating. Guided by the sea lions, we walk along coral reefs and drop-offs full of life. A real fishpond where it is not uncommon to cross some cormorants, hunting anchovies several meters deep.

Although pleasantly surprised by this natural complicity between the sea lion and the diver, we must not forget that they are wild animals in a wild environment. Keep in mind that a bite can inflict enormous damage on humans, which is especially important during breeding periods when adult males are very territorial and aggressive.

It is therefore imperative to respect the safety rules and codes of good behavior in order to adopt the appropriate behavior. For this it is essential to have a seasoned guide capable of properly supervising the divers.

In addition to safety instructions for diving and snorkeling, here are some important rules to follow for interactions with sea lions:
- Prohibition to climb on the rocks. You would cause stress to animals which would be aggressive on earth and would see you as an intruder, especially during the breeding season (May) which induces an inherent risk of being attacked by one of the adrenaline-filled “machos”.
- Stay away from the rocks and arouse the curiosity of females and young people, you will see, they will come to swim around you, leaving the territorial machos at a good distance.
- Sea lions are wild animals, so it is intolerable to touch them, feed them or behave in a disrespectful manner. (Imagine that you were walking in the street and that strangers came to “pet” you, in a way !!!

The site is perfect for beginners as well as for more experienced people, but also for non-divers. Videographers and photographers will be better off recharging their batteries before coming, as there will be plenty to do throughout the day. It is also an excellent site for the practice of apnea.

Possible encounters in La Paz

Hammerhead sharks: September to February
Whale Sharks: October - November and March to May
Mantas rays: August to September
Mobulas rays: July to October
Blue whales, dolphins: January to April
Gray Whales: February to March
Humpback whales: December to March
Manta Ray: August to September
Orcs: December to March
Sea lions: All year (April to avoid: period of rut)

Text & Photos: Greg LECOEUR