DIVING IN THE SEYCHELLES

Few months ago, Bernadette Willemin, the dynamic France and Europe Director ofTourist Office of Seychelles, contacted us. His desire was clear: to present diving in the Seychelles and “to make divers aware that this destination is not limited to immense white sand beaches and honeymoons. The underwater side is also worth a detour ”. We therefore had the chance, the happiness and the privilege of leaving from November 8 to 21, as part of a eductour * diving, discover a tiny part of the 115 islands that make up the Seychelles archipelago.

Click on the map to enlarge it

DIVING IN THE SEYCHELLES

The Seychelles are seated on a granite plateau where the fauna has de facto difficulty in settling. If the small protected bays are well colonized by the coral, we will mainly find on the outdoor sites soft corals and gorgonians. The passage of El Nino in 1995 caused damage but the fixed fauna begins to gain the upper hand.
It is possible to dive all year round but the quality of the sites varies depending on the prevailing winds. The best period for diving is from October to March. More specifically, the best conditions for diving are from April to May and from October to November. The water temperature is 29ºC and the visibility is often around thirty meters. In December and January, the trade winds blow from the north-west and the water is cloudier. From May to September, the winds blow strongly from the south. Especially in August, visibility is reduced and the water is “colder” (25 ° C).

There are very beautiful sites with granite formations, cracks, faults, caves, arches, peaks,… With good visibility, the whole offers good quality dives. And if wildlife gets involved, that's the icing on the cake.
Mantas (in season, April to December), mobulas, eagle rays and stingrays are less rare. Hawksbill turtles on almost every dive. A few humpback parrots, napoleons, groupers, groupers ...
All the benthic fauna of the Indian Ocean is present (gobies, scorpion fish, nudibranchs, parrots, batfish, etc ...). We are not in the profusion of some Maldivian sites, but there are beautiful schools of snappers, jacks, jacks, fish soldiers.
There is also a whale shark season (September to November) mainly south of Mahé.

ARRIVAL ON THE ISLAND OF MAHÉ

Its area is 144 km2 (about a third of the country), of granite nature, it culminates at 906 m, Morne Seychellois. It measures about 27 km long on 7 km wide.

Victoria is the capital and largest city of Seychelles despite being listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the smallest capital in the world. It is located on the northeast coast of the island of Mahé, the main island of the archipelago. This capital of 24 inhabitants concentrates more than a third of the Seychellois population.

Above all, do not miss the market, ideally on a Saturday in order to feel the country. It is a riot of colors, scents, spices. Around is a multitude of shops where everyone will find what they are looking for. Also plan to taste the unique menu of the Marie-Antoinette restaurant which serves the best of Seychellois cuisine that we have been given to taste.

BEAU VALLON BEACH ON THE ISLAND OF MAHÉ

Beau Vallon beach is the most popular on the island. Fine white sand, palm trees waving in the sea breeze, the trees of Takamaka offering shade and blue and calm water make the beauty of Beau Vallon, a small vacation spot made up of three hotels and a few guesthouses, bars and restaurants. It is THE diving spot on the island of Mahé. And nice detail, tourists but also locals like to navigate.

CORAL STRAND

Ideally located on Beau Vallon beach, this hotel offers modern rooms. The Ocean Deck Pub around the swimming pool enjoys an exceptional view, feet in the sand. However, the Island Trader, the restaurant, is simply a mistake… the impression of eating tasteless food in a train station buffet… too bad.

BLUE SEA DIVERS

Sylvain Mortier, the boss of the center is a French expatriate for many years in the Seychelles. The afternoon of our arrival, it was not planned to meet him but Sylvain was there, at the reception. “Hello, not too tired? If you feel up to it, I'll take you for a little dive… ”because Sylvain is like that, it makes him happy to show you his adopted country. And what better way to get to know a dive center if not to test it?

It is therefore a Beuchat center with its feet in the sand. 11 people work in this family structure and the only FFESSM structure in Mahé. Two fast boats will take you to the twenty or so neighboring sites (about 15 minutes of navigation) but also to the 25 “distant” sites (about 40 minutes).

Given our state of fatigue, we dipped Aquarium which is a rehabilitation spot (thank you Juliette…). The visibility was not great but the site is full of fish and perfect for rehabilitation dives ...

THE DIVING CRUISE IN THE SEYCHELLES: SILHOUETTE CRUISES

These cruises are operated on board sailboats throughout the central part of Seychelles (inner islands: Mahé, Silhouette, La Digue, Praslin, Curieuse, Cousin, Cousine, Bird and North Island, St Anne, Frégate) and offer tours with visits land, snorkeling, fishing and water skiing. During “classic” cruises, certified divers can do up to 8 dives. Recently, some cruises are really dedicated to diving and you can do up to 12 or more.
It is undoubtedly for the moment the best formula for diving in Seychelles at a lower cost.

Silhouettes Cruises features 4 units: the Sea Shell, the Sea Star, the Sea Bird and finally the Sea Pearl on which we have sailed 4 days.

SEA PEARL

This is a traditional schooner built in the Netherlands. It is an almost hundred-year-old unit with charm, ropes and sails often taken out for navigation. We feel that the boat has a history, experience.
At the front, it is the space dipped with the compressor, and the combinations to dry. No crates for gear. 2 rinsing tanks. No space for cameras.

The dives are done using a rigid and comfortable dinghy, equipped with a cover and a ladder. The launch is systematically carried out in the rear rocker. The diving supervision is managed by Silhouette Cruises with South African and Canadian (French-speaking) instructors.

Day 1 : Embarkation in the port of Mahé. Safety and functional briefing carried out by the captain. Installation of diving “gear”. Departure around 12:00 and meal served. Direction north-west of Mahé for a first dive:
the small island : Small granitic island surrounded by a small reef. Many alcyonarians, big jacks, shrimps, nudibranchs, eagle rays, and a small group of mobulas.

Day 2 : Navigation to Silhouette Island for a first dive, between Mahé and Silhouette:
Shark Bank : A set of large granite blocks patrolled by huge schools of snappers. Large stingrays, eagle rays, jacks, white tips, jacks and batfish. Without doubt the most beautiful dive of the stay.
Navigation to the south of Mahé during the meal. We anchored in the beautiful bay of Furnae, just next to lighthouse. The dolphins will come to visit us between 2 dives.
Lighthouse : On the southern tip, near the edge. Granitic plateau little colonized. Eagle rays, white tips, humpback parrots, nudibranchs, jacks and a cuttlefish bank.
Furnae Bay : Visi very small, but beautiful garden of hard corals (the only one we will see of the stay).

Day 3 : Morning departure towards Praslin. We stop halfway for a first dive:
Bitter Rock : a set of granitic rocks at -27m, with no real fauna. White tips, trevallies, shoals of snappers, dolphins (stealth) and a lot of batfish.
A night dive is proposed, not very convincing ...

Day 4 : Early morning awakening then navigation to Marianne, a small island located east of the Dike. The sea is oil, the island is deserted ...
Cathedral : diving close to the edge with big granitic rocks. Turtles, octopuses, humpback parrots, white tips, jacks and jacks. Granite Cathedral at the end of the dive and even some sharks.
Interval of one hour, navigation to the North of Félicité (National Park) then departure for the 2ème diving.
Coco : Another maze of granitic rocks with faults, small cavities. A lot of madrepores, anemones, hard corals with little beautiful red porcelain crabs. Color ...

The crew are warm and relaxed, the music selection great and the food very good and varied. Snack with fresh cake every afternoon ... The staff are helpful and discreet. The comfort is fairly simple and the cabins are really narrow. These can accommodate up to 4 people (1 double berth and 2 singles). The bathroom and the toilets are to be shared but the cleanliness is impeccable.

PRASLIN ISLAND

Praslin, the second largest island (38 km²) in the Seychelles archipelago, is located 44 km north-east of Mahé in the Inner Islands group. The island is famous, in addition to its paradisiacal beaches, for the Vallée de Mai, an ecological reserve with many endemic species, in particular five species of palm trees, and classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1983.

THE sea coconut of the valley of Mai

It is certain that this 20 hectare forest, the only place in the world where the coconut palm grows in its natural state, is one of the most beautiful shelters for plants in the world. We discover in particular that the coconut palm has male and female trees, the latter giving the famous giant coconuts with suggestive forms and called coco buttocks. A veritable cathedral of palms where one enters with devotion and admiration, the Valley of May includes other interesting plant species and is also home to the black parrot, a species not always easy to observe.

We walk freely along marked trails through this national park classified as World Heritage by Unesco. Entrance is free for Seychellois, others will have to pay around 15 euros. Open from 8 a.m. to 17:30 p.m., the Valley of May has become one of the obligatory passages for any traveler disembarking in the Seychelles.

CONSTANCE LEMURIA RESORT

The Constance Lémuria Resort, an exclusive 5-star hotel, member of Relais & Châteaux, with its own international 18-hole golf course, opened in December 1999. The modern architecture and the quality of the facilities are all guarantees for guests. clients who seek the most refined luxury and the best comfort in harmony with the unspoiled natural beauty of the environment.
Only 12 minutes from Praslin Airport, Constance Lémuria Resort Praslin is located in an idyllic site in the north-west of the island.

Oriented towards the Indian Ocean, on an area of ​​101 hectares, the Suites are arranged along two perfect beaches to the southwest and northwest. Each suite is 15 meters from the beach, discreetly nestled in the Seychelles natural gardens.

Several restaurants are at your disposal (the Legend, the Seahorse, the Beach Bar & Grill).

There are very few mini-clubs in the Seychelles. It is therefore interesting to underline that the mini-club “Turtle club” is intended for children from 4 to 12 years old. It has a games room and a dining area.

THE BOAT HOUSE: INTEGRATED DIVE CENTER IN LEMURIA

Thierry VANDAMME arrived in Seychelles for many years already. It is he who manages this high-end center. Comfortable boat, hot towels when you get back up, equipment transported on board as if by magic… great luxury.

We only did one immersion but the visibility was exceptional. The center rarely runs at full speed because the hotel clientele is multi-activity. This guarantees you an unfailing staff availability. Nevertheless, this luxury has a certain price, even a certain price ...

DESROCHES ISLAND RESORT

A 40-minute flight from Mahé, a 14-km stretch of beach and an exuberant tropical forest offer an enchanting setting, renowned for fishing and diving. Desroches Island is an island in the Amirante Islands group in the Seychelles. Located 230 kilometers southwest of Mahé, it is 6 km long and 1,5 km wide, it is the largest of the Amirante Islands. The island is private and has a luxury hotel structure. At this level of service, I must admit that words fail me ... the images speak for themselves:

The diving center is in tune with the hotel structure. Rare are the diving centers so… so… nothing ostentatious however, only beautiful.

Eric, the instructor who made us dive for 3 days, knows like the back of his hand the fifteen sites listed on the island, which is a real Gruyère. Tunnels, caves, chimneys… lots of penetrations. The current is also there and in order to avoid any risk of getting lost, the instructor sends his parachute from the start of the dive and drags it until the end.

It is really a place to do and which, all things considered, is certainly not cheap, but it is not the most expensive of our journey either.

Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort & Spa

Secluded on a virgin island with towering jungle-covered mountains, the Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort & Spa offers a taste of adventure with the utmost comfort. 3rd island in the archipelago by area, Silhouette, 93% of which is declared a protected natural park, is a corner of paradise for rest where time has stood still. This ultimate retreat invites you to relax in one of the most beautiful spas in the Seychelles nestled among the granite rocks.

The center is a 5 star PADI where everything is meticulously organized. The country's hyperbaric chamber being located a few meters from it, your safety could not be better assured. We also only did a very small dive here which suggests excellent spots.

All the infrastructures are managed by Germans, which is a guarantee of rigor. Be careful, however, not to confuse rigor and rigidity ... diving is certainly a serious activity, we should not forget that it is a hobby 😉

EMBARKATION DIRECTION SEYCHELLES: PARIS - ABU DHABI - MAHÉ

It takes about 6h30 to reach Abu Dhabi and 4 hours better to finally reach Mahé, the capital of Seychelles.

Since'Etihad Airways took 40% of the capital and control of the operations ofAir Seychelles, the number of flights from Mahé airport (via Abhu Dhabi) has increased from 57 to 375 per week. And domestic traffic to the islands of Praslin, Bird, Frégate or Denis is not left behind, with an increase of 30%.

Eight weekly return flights are offered by both airlines, between Abu Dhabi and the Seychelles archipelago.

A survey conducted among Internet users, the results of which were unveiled on March 27, 2011 by the Air Valid site, class Etihad Airways, as the company which has the most comfortable economy class seat in the world. Indeed, with 83 cm of pitch (spacing between a seat and the one in front) in economy class, Etihad is one of the most generous companies for a trip of unparalleled comfort.

The "New Pearl Business Class”Is not left out as you can imagine, a flight crew with great care and fantastic comfort. In addition to the champagne, the 38 cm screen, the meal served whenever you want ... your seat is completely extended. The flight hours go by and you arrive without seeing the time pass.

THE WORDS OF THE END

STEPHANE GRIVEAU from home ABYSSWORLD :

“It is undeniable, the Seychelles are to be hoisted in the top 5 destinations for those who succumb to island charms: sublime beaches (among the most beautiful that I have ever seen), enchanting lagoons, a population jovial and welcoming, generous nature and Olympian calm. Here, we really taste the sweetness of life and we indulge in an almost permanent contemplation. If the granite decorations have reserved for us beautiful underwater scenes, the corals and sharks may be missed by seasoned divers. Despite this, the Seychelles remains a cocktail in which many strengths come together. Whether on a cruise or a holiday (by combining at least 2 to 3 islands), divers and non-divers will find an ideal compromise. ”

ZIAD EL ZEIN from home KEY LARGO :

“The Seychelles, an archipelago to discover absolutely. I was able to know most of the possibilities of travel in Seychelles during the educational tour carefully concocted by the Seychelles Tourism Board. I was surprised by the charm of the seabed, often criticized by divers who expect a “Maldies bis”. The granite rocks submerged in clear waters covered with soft corals haunted by schools of varied fish, a macro fauna present, large sleeper sharks, eagle rays and mobulas, enough to satisfy those who feel that their most beautiful dive is good next. Charming hotels and luxury hotels harmonize in a charming decor and Mahé alone is a trip in itself. Le Lémuria à Praslin is superb and Desroches is a haven of luxury and pleasure. Note that the corals that surround Desroches give a feeling of being alone in the world, this dream island is so far from everything. ”

JULIETTE ELZIERE from home ULTRAMARINA :

“An excellent memory, coasting 3 nights in the Seychelles aboard the Sea Pearl, an old Dutch rig from 1915; but also combine diving and shore visits, and discover the famous mythical granite blocks on the edge of white sand beaches and underwater. The Ilot site, in particular, in the North West of Mahé is, as its name suggests, a small granite island with 2 coconut trees. Underwater, the blocks of rock are as if cut up and scattered loose, and form arches in some places. Another exceptional memory is one of the dives at Desroches. The island is 45 minutes by mini plane from Mahé, in the heart of the Amirantes and is one of the outer islands. The island, which measures 6 km by 1, is surrounded by a huge lagoon with spots that are 15-30 minutes by speedboat. Eric, our Seychellois dive master, who speaks a nice mix of French, Creole and English with lots of funny expressions, takes us on “secret passage”. We first enter a closed cave which shelters in particular an enormous moray eel and a few lobsters then, after having skirted the reef rich in large gorgonians and crossing a large loach, we pass under the rock to come out in a vertical tunnel with a brilliant light. which contrasts with the half-light of the previous cave. There it is a whirlwind of schools of fusiliers, bigeye fish ... a nurse shark is stashed under the rocks. We then calmly climb vertically on the plateau, then the current takes us at high speed and the boat spots us with the parachute. ”

A real paradise for island lovers !!!

If the beaches are absolutely beautiful (some of the most beautiful I have ever seen) and preserved, if the landscape is worthy of any pirate novel, Seychelles has a lot of advantages for people. visitors:
- Welcoming and peaceful population. There are only very rare security issues.
- Creole culture, with its legendary nonchalance, its French-speaking influences. No language barrier and everyone speaks English as well.
- No vaccines, no malaria, no nasty bugs. Ideal for a stay with children.
- Very clean destination. I did not see a single piece of waste during my stay, whether on land or underwater.
- Generous nature with many endemic species, especially for birds (giant tortoises on certain islands such as La Digue, Curieuse or Desroches)
- It's calm, but then calm …….
- No visa
- Stable climate all year round (no cyclones)
- Socialist Republic which offers many social advantages to the population and obliges foreign investors to train local staff (especially in hotels) to enable them to gain access to important positions in the short term. Many state-owned enterprises count small local carriers among their shareholders. For a long time, this protectionism cost the inhabitants who had little freedom, especially to leave the territory, but this has evolved.
- The fact of combining the islands is quite easy with good air connections (beware of delays anyway, or last minute cancellations) and very fast ferries.

Drawbacks :
- Life is expensive… food, excursions, drinks, dives, everything is there. Better to have a well-stocked wallet….
- No need to come here to go out at night, with the exception of Mahé, you will be hungry ...

Éductour: technical term used by tourism professionals. These are promotional and information trips or circuits produced by travel manufacturers and offered to travel agencies and tour operators. The goal is to have the formula tested by professionals for several days while encouraging them to then offer them to their customers. Such operations can also be organized by the tourist offices as part of development operations.